Control Arm

Control arms are part of the suspension which locates and controls the movement of the hub and strut. There are usually a couple control arms on each corner of the vehicle. They also have bushings and ball joints which is usually why they need replacement ovetrtime, since those are wear items. The cost to replace varies depending on the vehicle. Control arms cost different amounts depending on the vehicle, as well as the labor to install. Some are easy to install and take little time, while others can take several hours.

Likely the replacement control arm comes with new bushings, although I'm not an expert in that particular car.  Most come as a unified assembly these days, and for a car as widely produced as the Accord, you could probably replace the entire unit for cheaper than just replacing just the bushings, but I'm not an expert in that particular car. Its always worth it to replace bushings on control arms.  I wouldn't mess with anything that has to do with integrity of the front suspension, unless you live somewhere where the roads are perfect and pristine, you never have to make evasive maneuvers, and you don't ever turn.   It also can substantially effect the front end alignment, depending on how worn it actually is, which effects how straight the car goes on the highway, and how well it responds to steering input.Front ends, while really sturdy, need to be intact to be operate as designed.   I realize you may not want to spend any money on it and want it to last another year, but its an  unfortunate false economy to not replace a control arm bushing.

Those are the bottom most mounts for your front wheels spindles. They set a lot of your alignment parameters and certain bearing surfaces becoming loose can cause steering and tire wear issues.They can also be bent from collision and abuse.

Likely the replacement control arm comes with new bushings, although I'm not an expert in that particular car.  Most come as a unified assembly these days, and for a car as widely produced as the Accord, you could probably replace the entire unit for cheaper than just replacing just the bushings, but I'm not an expert in that particular car. Its always worth it to replace bushings on control arms.  I wouldn't mess with anything that has to do with integrity of the front suspension, unless you live somewhere where the roads are perfect and pristine, you never have to make evasive maneuvers, and you don't ever turn.   It also can substantially effect the front end alignment, depending on how worn it actually is, which effects how straight the car goes on the highway, and how well it responds to steering input.Front ends, while really sturdy, need to be intact to be operate as designed.   I realize you may not want to spend any money on it and want it to last another year, but its an  unfortunate false economy to not replace a control arm bushing.

The installation dimension is tested by special guage,failure detection is tested by Fatigue Test.

The material for cold forming is SPHC, St12 for high quality. The material for aluminium control arm  is 6061-T6.

 If we have inventory, one week is enough. If no, it is usually 45 days for production. 

 More than 300 items,including European car, American car,Japanese car, Korea car and so on. 

 With normal natural carton and pallet. 

Abt. 2 or 3 years.

A control arm (also called an A-arm or wishbone) is a crucial component of a car’s suspension system. It connects the wheel hub (or steering knuckle) to the vehicle’s frame and allows controlled movement while maintaining stability. Here’s how it works during vehicle operation: 1. Function & Structure Primary Role: Acts as a pivot point for the wheel, enabling up-and-down motion over bumps. Maintains wheel alignment (camber, caster, and toe) for proper tire contact. Key Parts: Bushings (rubber/polyurethane) – Absorb vibrations and allow flex. Ball Joint – Connects the control arm to the steering knuckle, enabling steering movement. 2. How It Works While Driving A. Over Bumps & Rough Roads When the wheel hits a bump, the control arm swings upward, compressing the shock absorber/spring. The bushings flex to dampen vibrations, preventing harsh impacts on the chassis. B. During Cornering Lateral forces push the wheel outward. The control arm’s geometry resists excessive body roll, keeping the tire grounded. The ball joint allows the wheel to turn smoothly for steering input. C. Acceleration/Braking Under acceleration, the control arm prevents the wheel from lifting or squatting excessively. During braking, it stabilizes the wheel to avoid nose-diving. 3. Failure Symptoms Clunking noises (worn ball joint/bushings). Uneven tire wear (misalignment due to a bent arm). Vibrations or loose steering (failed bushings). 4. Common Materials Steel (heavy-duty, cost-effective). Aluminum (lightweight for performance cars). Forged or Cast (varies by strength needs). Key Takeaway The control arm ensures smooth wheel movement, stable handling, and longevity of tires/suspension. Regular inspection (especially bushings/ball joints) is critical for safety.

In automotive suspension systems, certain control arms (also called A-arms or wishbones) are designed to be partially interchangeable between left and right sides for the following reasons: 1. Symmetrical Geometry Some control arms have mirror-image designs (e.g., straight or symmetrical bushings/mounting points), allowing them to be installed on either side with minor adjustments. Example: Rear lower control arms in some FWD vehicles. 2. Cost & Manufacturing Efficiency Using shared parts reduces production complexity and inventory costs. A single part number can serve both sides, even if not perfectly identical. 3. Bushing/Ball Joint Flexibility If the bushings or ball joints are rotatable or non-directional, the same arm may fit both sides despite slight geometric differences. 4. Aftermarket Adaptability Aftermarket control arms (especially adjustable ones) often prioritize universal fitment over side-specific precision, trading off perfect OEM alignment for versatility.

Cars use two control arms (upper + lower) per wheel because: Stability Like holding a ladder with two hands (not one), two arms keep the wheel steady over bumps and turns. Precision Control The upper arm controls tilt (camber), while the lower arm handles side forces. Together, they keep tires flat on the road. Durability Sharing the load between two arms reduces stress, preventing wear. Analogy: Imagine a door hinge—single hinge = wobbly, double hinges = smooth movement. Same logic!

The automotive aftermarket offers numerous control arm variations due to several key factors: 1. Vehicle-Specific Engineering Model Variations: Different cars require unique designs (e.g., MacPherson strut vs. multi-link suspensions). OEM vs. Aftermarket: Aftermarket brands develop alternatives for performance upgrades or cost savings. 2. Material & Performance Tiers Economy: Cast iron or stamped steel arms (budget replacements). Performance: Forged aluminum or tubular steel (lighter, stronger). OEM+: Reinforced designs with polyurethane bushings (longevity focus). 3. Suspension Customization Needs Lifted/Lowered Vehicles: Adjustable arms correct geometry after ride height changes. Off-Road Use: Heavy-duty arms withstand rough terrain (e.g., Jeep Wrangler kits). 4. Regional Market Demands Saltbelt Areas: Arms with corrosion-resistant coatings (e.g., zinc plating). Track Use: Spherical joint arms for precise alignment (sacrificing NVH comfort).